Sean White is a kayak fishing guide, fisheries biologist, Jackson Kayaks Factory Fishing Team Pro, and Kokatat Ambassador.  Long known for his fishing prowess Sean is also a meticulous craftsman, and loves to share tips and tricks. - See more at: http://jacksonkayak.com/team-jk/kayak-fishing-factory-team/sean-white/#sthash.UelNPdM4.dpuf

I recently got a Jackson Kraken.  Here's how I added my Raymarine Dragonfly to the yak. First step was to flip the boat over and place the Dragonfly transducer into the transducer scupper.  Then trace the footprint of the transducer in the scupper using a Sharpie...

The get out the kayak lazer gun (ok its actually just a hot glue gun) and let it get good and hot.  Apply a good bit of hot glue into the area where the transducer contacts the hull and quickly embed the transducer.  Then while the glue is still hot, add more glue above the transducer to "capture it" in hot glue... 

Wait about five minutes and then flip her over.  Every kayak has a goofy feature.  This kayak has a well-intended but totally useless drink holder bungee.  Cut it out!

Seal the holes with your lazer...

Now drill a hole for the transducer cable...

Seal the hole with a Wire Cap...

Put a little Goop into the backside of the wire cap to seal any minor openings...

Put a small bead of hot glue onto the transducer cable and press it into the recess around the hatch perimeter to secure the cable high and out of the way for tangle free rod stuffing...

Repeat every few inches until its all high and tight...

After looking at a number of ways to get the cable thru the hull and to the head unit I decided to use the hinge clamp plate as the "wire cap".  Carefully mark the front edge of the hinge clamp plate and then disassemble the clamp. 

Then drill a hole for the transducer cable.  Place the hole so that only a small portion of the hole is exposed when the clamp plate is reinstalled.  This small gap is where the wires will pass thru while the clamp plate will cover the majority of the large hole required to pass the cable end thru...Pass the wire thru and Goop all of the clamp holes...Reinstall the clamp and then open the hatch.  Seal the backside of the pass thru with more Goop.  Then install a pair of cable organizers to the bottom of the hatch under the clamp plate...

Coil your transducer cable and zip tie it into place using your cable organizers...

Route the power cable that is integrated into the transducer cable forward into the battery tray that is under the front hatch.  Trim to length and install terminal ends...

Install battery...

Done with the hard part (which was actually really easy). 

For installing the head unit I wanted to come up with some kind of sturdy base.  I used Ram balls on my Cuda and it was always too wiggly for my liking.  Unfortunately the Dragonfly base is too big for direct mounting.  It would contact my trucks roof when on my roof rack.  How to have a rigid mount yet totally removable....HMMMMmmmm.  I stared at the tracks, my assortment of Yak Attack gear but nothing quite worked.

So I sketch up an idea for a mounting plate and sent it to Luther Cifers at Yak Attack.  He is a great guy and a fishing buddy. A few emails later this showed up at my house...

I mounted the Dragonfly base to the pre-drilled plate using the supplied screws...

Screwed on the saddle...

And slid the assembly onto the hatch tracks...BOOOOOM!

The whole set up is super clean and very easy to strip off for transport or surf launching...As fishing yaks progress it has become easier and easier to rig them.  This was super easy and I love the results...

And it works beautifully!